Fortis Marinemaster - Watch out for fakes!

Super compressors are cool. No doubt about it. Different shapes of cases were made and the largest at 42 mm wide are very wearable.

The Fortis Marinemaster are one the most common models found on eBay and has a colourful and unique layout. The watch measures:
Width: 42 mm
Length: 49,5 mm
Height: 12,5 mm


Some wristshots of the fake version:

The price is usually reasonable at 300-350 euro for a vintage super compressor. And the Fortis Marinemaster's has all the characteristics of a super compressor: criss-cross pattern on crowns, the helmet-logo on the back of the case and the helmet logo and production date on the inside of the back case. Almost all Fortis Marinemaster's for sale are in mint condition. But it is almost to good to be true.

A little googling and soon I realised that 19 out of 20 for sale are modern replicas (or fakes, as some would call them). A some point in time a large batch has been produced and they are now gradually released to the market.

Read this blog with an excellent discussion. UPDATE: Also see this thread on Watchuseek.

The fake Fortis Marinemaster's are fairly easy to identify once you are aware of what to look for. The production date is "4 - 70" :

It says "WATERPROOP" on the back case:

Often the wrong "P" in "WATERPROOP" has been etched out:

Or the word "WATERPROOP" has been polished away:

On the outer ring the fake versions have "DEPTH IN FEET." combined with square hour markers:

In 2002 actually Fortis themselves produced a 90-years limited edition of the Fortis Marinemaster Steel Date, but only 90 pieces were made. They should be easily recognizable by the limitation number (e.g. "12/90" engraved on the case back. Source.

Spec sheet for the Fortis Marinemaster 90-years limited edition of 90 pieces

A genuine 90-years limited edition of the Fortis Marinemaster from 2002. Note the number on the back.
Source

A genuine Fortis Marinemaster from the early 70s has a different colour scheme on the dial - less red, more orange and yellow:

Note that later versions with "DEPTH IN FEET." and round hour markers has the dive table only in red (or orange if the print has faded):

A genuine Fortis Marinemaster has no spelling errors on the back case: 

A genuine Fortis Marinemaster is not only produced in "4-70" but e.g. from "11-72": 

A genuine Fortis Marinemaster has "60 55 50 45" on the outer ring (combined with square or round hour markers):

Source

Some genuine models has "DEPTH IN FEET." combined with round hour markers. But none seems to have "DEPTH IN FEET." and square markers like the fake versions.

Source

Original documentation from Fortis.

Fortis 6237 source

Fortis 6337 source

To sum up. The genuine Fortis Marinemaster's are very rare and often sold for 1.000+ euros.

The Fortis Marinemaster replicas are available, reasonably affordable, in excellent condition and cool looking - but certainly not from the 70s. If only the sellers would call them "replicas" or "heritage".

Update May 2019

There seems to be more fake Fortis Marinemaster Super Compressors for sale at eBay and Chrono24 than ever. In alle fairness some are advertised as beeing ”reedition” or being from ”2010-Now”. But a large part are still pushed as being from the 1970s and all are labeled ”Fortis”. You are not buying a genuine Fortis, it is a copy with unknown origin.

Please note that the sellers has some new tricks up their sleeves.

On same fake watches a new text has been etched in the backcase. Note that waterproof are spelled in two words and it has the non-existing model number 3231:

To make the fake version look more authentic some has a dial with a new layout where yellow and orange also are used. It is looking more like the original but the colours are too clear and bright:

The month and year "4-70" on the inside of the back has been removed:

Cordura Sea-Gull vintage divers watch

This is my second buy from eBay. The dial reads in full: Cordura 17 Jewels Selfwinding Sea-Gull Waterresistant T Swiss Made T. The price was a very low 102 Euros.

In my view the Cordura Sea-Gull is a true classic 70s diver with a distinct styling.

The Cordura Sea-Gull has a shiny, brass plated case, not steel, this was a everymans watch. It has a Submariner-style external divers bezel, but with originally protruded numbers and lines. A fixed internal scale inspired by watches with internal bezels. And a purple dial that ages really well with almost no fading.

Some pictures from the ad on eBay:

Measurements:

Width w/o crown: 41,7 mm

Width with crown: 44,0 mm

Length: 45,2 mm

Depth: 14 mm

Lugs: 20,2 mm

Compared to most watches from the 70s it is large, but actually it doesn't wear that big on the wrist. I have changed the strap to a rubber divers strap with notching.

The movement is a Baumgartner Frères S.A. BFG 158 31/7, automatic with day and date. Full specifications in Ranfft. 

Nice articles about service of Cordura Sea-Gull's from the Watch Guy here and here. A commenter tells that he bought his Sea-Gull in 1975 and that it came shipped in a container filled with water! Probably to underline that it was a divers watch. 

Strangely Mikrolisk doesn’t list ”Cordura” in their database. But everybody on the internet seems to agree that Cordura was a brand from Sicura – and the evidence is clear. The back of the case with the two seahorses is unmistakenly from Sicura. Furthermore exact the same model can be found with "Sicura" on the dial.

Some wristshots from the net:

A really hires photo:

One guy has collected an entire flock of Cordura Sea-Gulls:

He tells that even if most Sea-Gulls look exactly the same there has been slight variations in the design and choice of movements. Originally the Cordura Sea-Gull came with a tropic strap.

Fun fact. Sicura even made a tiny Cordura Lady Sea-Gull measuring only 29 mm in width:

CLICK HERE - AND READ THE STORY OF THE SICURA WATCH BRAND

CLICK HERE - GO TO THE NEWEST POST ON THIS BLOG ABOUT LARGE VINTAGE WATCHES

Choosing the right watch band / Di-Modell Chronissimo

For the Lancia Worldtime I chose the Di-Modell Chronissimo watch band in 20 mm.

The Lancia has a lug width of 19,3 mm and a 20 mm band will fit with no problem.

The Di-Modell Chronissimo is notched by design - see more here - and is 25,8 mm wide just after the notches. The look of the Lancia could really benefit from a wider strap. Furthermore the Chronissimo has a significant stitching and a leather pad that should fit a watch with hidden lugs like the Lancia.

Next step will be to test a stainless steel band. Maybe a wide band (22 mm) with detachable end links will work on the Lancia without using the end links.

Source

Falcon Worldtime 17 Rubis Incabloc

An large vintage and unsual watch from eBay:

Dimensions: 

Width with bezel w/o crown: 42 mm

Height: 46 mm 

According to Mikrolisk the name ”Falcon” has been used by several companies. It seems reasonable to assume that this Falcon Worldtime 17 Rubis Incabloc is from Montres Falcon SA from Bienne.

The watch were sold on eBay by a seller from Turkey. There seems to be a special bond between Falcon watches and Turkey. In 1974 the brand Falcon was registered in Turkey (source) by Montres Falcon SA.

However following a note in L’Impartial on the 23rd January 1980 the company ”Montres Falcon SA, Bienne” went into bankruptcy on the 4th December 1979 and was closed down - like so many other watch companies in that era.

Initially I thought that this Falcon Worldtime was a frankenwatch or a rebranded Mortima or similar. But it seems to be an original design and creation. It has some nice touches with the name Falcon on the case back and on the movement:

 

Last but not least can some similar watches be found on the internet:

Source

Source

The watch at eBay were sold for app. 36 euros. I did not buy it, but maybe I should have...