20. december 2016

Watches from Jean-Louis Frésard are not really vintage

I found some really nice watches from Jean-Louis Frésard which seemed to tick all boxes: Vintage, big, bold, fine condition and ok priced.

A closer inspection made me feel somehow cheated. It seems that Jean-Louis Frésard is a french watchmaker that assembles models from vintage and new parts. The Valjoux movements most be genuine and maybe some of the other parts, it is not certain to what extent.

The problem is not so much with Frésard themselves - they advertise the watches on eBay as "new with tags" - but when the watches are resold this information can be lost and the watches are advertised as from the "70s" in "NOS" condition or similar.

If you know what you are buying, these watches can be ok, but if you want authencity it is not the real deal.

Some examples:
Valjoux 7733 in a 42 mm wide steel case. Put together by Jean-Louis Frésard.
Valjoux 7734 in a 42 mm wide steel case. Put together by Jean-Louis Frésard.

Please note that watches branded "Fresard" is not the same as "Jean-Louis Frésard". Fresard made some interesting models in the 60s and 70s.

Sources:
http://www.fresardwatch.com/
http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/fresardwatch

CLICK HERE - GO TO THE NEWEST POST ON THIS BLOG ABOUT LARGE VINTAGE WATCHES

5. november 2016

Elix 3025 Valjoux 7734 Chronograph

This Elix is my 12th large vintage watch. Elix is an old brand dating back to 1852, made by Mougin Piquard - read about the history in this post.

My Elix 3025 racing chronograph from the 1970s
Measurements:
Width w/o crown: 44,2 mm
Width with crown: 46,1 mm
Length: 43,2 mm
Depth: 12,9 mm
Lugs: 22,0 mm

The dial reads: Elix - 17 Rubis - Incabloc - Ebauche Suisse
On the back: All stainless steel - 3025 - Waterproof tested 5atm

We know from an Elix ad from 1975 that each model had a number, e.g. 1401, 1756 and 2269. On the back of my watch it says 3025 - it seems fair to assume that it is the model number.

The watch has a solid steel case, all shiny with no signs of brushing or similar. The case has hidden lugs and is rounded with no sharp edges which gives it a pleasant, smooth appearance on the wrist. It is a big watch at 44 mm but somehow it manages to feel more like a dress watch than a classical tool watch. I have yet to find another watch with a similar case.

The dial has a classical 1970s racing design with splashes of red on the subdials. The colors has faded over the years but the orange chrono hand still pops. It has raised hour markers and still some lume on the hands.

Elix 3025 Valjoux Chronograph - low profile
Elix 3025 Valjoux Chronograph - hidden lugs
Elix 3025 Valjoux Chronograph - large 44 mm steel case

The watch has a Valjoux 7734 movement, It is manual-wound with two subdials and date. See Ranfft here. The movement was produced in a period from 1969 to 1978 so it can't be used to date the Elix watch more precise.

Many brands like Breitling, Bulova, Heuer, Roamer, Tissot and Tudor used the Valjoux 7734. And of course the Sicura MG.

CLICK HERE - GO TO THE NEWEST POST ON THIS BLOG ABOUT LARGE VINTAGE WATCHES

22. oktober 2016

The history of the Elix watch brand

Not much has been written on the net about Elix, an old, french watch brand. Luckily I found this very interesting article with a lot of facts.
Article about Mougin Piquard and their watch brand Elix.
Click here to open a pdf with the article in french and a Google translation to english.

The Mougin-family began the production of watches under the brand name "Elix" in 1852 in Besancon in France. Besancon is just near the border to Switzerland and home to some of the most wellknown french watch brands, like Lip (est. 1800), Yema (est. 1948) and Maty (est. 1952).

In 1927 the company were taken over by Ernest Mougin and Paul Piquard. It is said that they continued the production of Elix watches and also used their own names "Mougin Piquard". I have however not been able to find any vintage watches bearing their names.
Elix pocket watch, probably from the 50s
Elix watch from the 60s

Elix diver from the 60s
Looks very much like a 36mm Super Compressor.
From another angle it seems to have crosshatched crowns.
At some point the next generation has taken over and the management were Jean-François Piquard, President and CEO, Jean-Claude Mougin, CEO, and Philippe Piquard, Commercial Director.


Mougin Piquard "Elix" ad from 1975.
Each watch model had an unique number.
In 1968 they produced 30 000 watches per year. In 1975 they moved to a new, larger location in Besancon and had opened an office in Paris.

The sales increased and in 1979 the production had reached 110 000 watches. Mougin Piquard S.A. employed 40 people, participated in the la Foire de Bâle (now Baselworld) and issued an annual catalog. It must have been happy and prosperous times.
The factory at 1, rue des Cras, Besancon. As seen in 2015.
The shop in Paris at 24, rue Pastourelle. As seen in 2009.
Promotional item, Elix watch brand
Elix chronograph from the 70s
One watch maker that worked for Mougin Piquard in 1970s tells that it was easy to get a job at one or another factory in Besancon, but in 1980 it was all over and the quartz revolution changed everything.

According to Mikrolisk a new company "Mougin & Piquard SA" were registred in Bienne in Switzerland in november 1980. From then on the brand "Elix" seems to have disappeared and a lot of "Mougin Piquard" watches with quartz movements can be found.
Mougin Piquard quartz watch from the 80s
Mougin & Piquard still exists and sells "vintage-inspired timepieces perfected with a century of watchmaking expertise"... The new Mougin & Piquard is located in Bienne at the same address as - and probably owned by - Roventa-Henex, makers of private labels watches.

Thanks to these sources:
http://www.passion51.com/t2514-une-montre-a-gousset-elix
https://encheres.catawiki.eu/kavels/3337531-mougin-piquard-montre-gousset-ann-es-1980-avec-sa-chaine
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Histoire_de_l%27horlogerie_%C3%A0_Besan%C3%A7on#Tribaudeau
http://forumamontres.forumactif.com/t86140p210-la-vintage-du-jour
http://forum.horlogerie-suisse.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10335

CLICK HERE - GO TO THE NEWEST POST ON THIS BLOG ABOUT LARGE VINTAGE WATCHES

14. oktober 2016

My collection of large vintage watches

Just to sum up
(width w/o crown x length x height x lug width)

1. Lancia Worldtime - 43,7 x 43,7 x 15,2 x 19,3
About Lancia Worldtime
History of Lancia
Watches with same chunky case

2. Cordura Sea-Gull (from Sicura) - 41,7 x 45,2 x 14 x 20,2
About Cordura Sea-Gull
History of Sicura

3. Orient World Diver - 42,1 x 46 x 15,3 x 19

4. Tissot Seastar T.12 - 42,1 x 50 x 14,3 x 21,8

5. Coriental Calendar - 42 x 47,5 x 12,9 x 22
About Coriental Calendar
History of Coriental

6. Sicura Chronograph MG - 43 x 45,1 x 13,4 x 21,9

7. Ogival Worldtime - 43,1 x 45,8 x 14,3 x 18,8

8. Seiko 6138-0017 "Ufo” - 44 x 46,2 x 15,8 x 18

9. Seiko 6138-3002 “Big Pilot” - 41,9 x 47 x 15,9 x 18,2

10. Wittnauer 2000 – 42,1 x 45 x 11,7 x 18,6
About Wittnauer 2000
History of the Wittnauer brand

11. Arios Tauchkalkulator world time – 44,3 x 49 x 13 x 25,9
About Arios (Arvos) Tauchkalkulator
History of the Arios brand 

12. Elix 3025 Valjoux Chronograph – 44,2 x 43,2 x 12,9 x 22
About Elix 3025 Chrono
History of the Elix brand

13. Inventic Internal Bezel – 42 x 47,1 x 14 x 21,8
History of the Inventic brand

14. Mortima SuperDatomatic hexagonal -  42,1 x 44,8 x 13,0 x 18,7
All the Mortima large divers
More history and articles about Mortima

15. Lucerne Swiss Jump Hour - 42,3 x 40,3 x 11,3 x 23,8

16. Stellaris Electronic "Racing Diver" - 42,0 x 45,4 x 12,8 x 19,0

17. Interpol Submarin (from Oberon) - 41,8 x 46,1 x 11,5 x 18,0

18. Buler Super-Nova - 42,0 x 42,5 x 10,8 x 24,2

19. Expert racing (from Brac) - 41,5 x 44,7 x 10,7 x 21,2

20. Citizen Diver 51-1811 - 42,9 x 45,8 x 13,8 x 18,1

21. Ondex Diver XL - 51,1 x 46,9 x 12,0 x 20,0
 
22. Olimpic Automatico - 43,8 x 43,2 x 14,0 x 19,4

23. Omax 5 Crystal - 42,9 x 46,9 x 14,6 x 19,0