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11. september 2017

The large Mortima divers watches - plus the thermo-compass.

In the 1970s Mortima made a range of large dive watches with a width of 42 mm or larger. They mainly differ through the shape of the watch case. The dials are almost the same - black or blue with green painted hour markers, all cases are plated base metal and they are all powered by the Cattin C66 movement with date.
The divers were often labelled "SuperDatomatic" which is fun as the C66 movement is hand wound and not an automatic.
On the crystal most of the models has a small magnifying glass over the date - probably inspired by the Rolex cyclop on the Submariner. Following the fashion in the 1970s the watches have cases with hidden lugs.
So here we go. The ultimate list of wearable, affordable, desirable, contemporary-sized Mortima’s.

If you are interested in the story of Mortima, Cattin & Cie and Emile Cattin - click here and here.


The Hexagonal
Surprisingly little printed material with Mortima watches can be found. But we have this super ad that shows an original hexagonal version. Furthermore there was an ad in Motor Boating & Sailing magazine in November 1979 with the same watch. This tells that these Mortima dive watches were produced in the late part of the 1970s and maybe even into the 1980s.

Mortima printed ad with divers. The larger watch to the right is the hexagonal.
Date of ad unknown.

A closeup on the Mortima SuperDatomatic in the ad.
It has a blue dial and the outer external bezel is with minutes/hours.
The dot on the seconds hand is green.
It was sold with a rubber strap in "tropical" style. 

Small ad from Motor Boating and Sailing from november 1979.
Same bezels as in the ad above.
The dial on the watch in the ad reads: "Mortima, 17 Jewels, SuperDatomatic, Waterproof 100%". It is also common to see versions with "Super 28" instead of "17 Jewels" on the dial. And on some watches "Waterproof 100%" has been left out.
The Mortima hexagonal has one internal bezel and two external bezels. The external bezels are interesting - on the inner bezel is the numbers from 6 to 500 and on the outer bezel is minutes and hours and it says "M Km Knt". Not sure yet about how that works - but it is probably for some kind of speed measurement in "Miles", "Kilometers" and "Knots".
It is not uncommon to find versions with "Tachymetre" and cities (world-time) on the external bezels. Maybe the customers had a choice between the two configurations.

Measurements:
Width w/o crown: 42,1 mm
Width with crown: ? mm
Length: 47,1 mm
Depth: 14 mm
Lugs: 21,8 mm

Mortima SuperDatomatic with hexagonal watch case.
Original configuration with same dial and bezels as in the ad.
Mortima SuperDatomatic hexagonal with tachymetre and world-time bezels.
No "Waterproof 100%" on the dial.
Mortima SuperDatomatic with red dot on the seconds hand. Original?
The backcase with the famous Mortima diver.

Mortima SuperDatomatic hexagonal seen from the side with the two crowns.

Mortima SuperDatomatic hexagonal on the wrist. Screams 1970s and has great presence.

The Square / Pilots watch
The dial typically reads: "Mortima, 17 Jewels, SuperDatomatic, Waterproof 100%".  Sometimes "Super 28" has replaced "17 Jewels".
There is also the "Commandant de Bord" version which reads: "Mortima, 17 Jewels, Waterproof 100%. Commandant de Bord".
The Mortima square has two external bezels - one with tachymeter and the outer with cities for a world time-function. "Commandant de Bord" means "flight captain" which fits with the bezel.
This model has two crowns placed in the upper right and lower right corners of the watch. The upper crown controls the internal bezel.

Measurements (taken from different sources):
Width w/o crown: 42,5-43 mm
Width with crown: 42,5-43 mm
Length: 42,5-43 mm
Depth: 12,5 mm
Lugs: ? mm

Mortima SuperDatomatic square pilot.
The dot on the seconds hand is red here. Usually it is green so maybe it has been replaced at some point?
Mortima square pilot - the Commandant de Bord version.
Mortima square pilot - with "Super Calendar" on the dial. Seems legit.

Mortima SuperDatomatic square pilot from one side.
Mortima SuperDatomatic square pilot from the other side.
Mortima SuperDatomatic square pilot, backcase with the diver.
Mortima SuperDatomatic square pilot, wrist shot.
Note that here the crystal is missing the cyclop and is not original.

The Circle / Mortima UFO
The shape of this case is a circle cut off in top and bottom. 
The dial typically reads: "Mortima, 21 Jewels, SuperDatomatic, Waterproof 100%". Some models has "Super 28" instead of "21 Jewels" on the dial. On some "Waterproof 100%" has been left out.
It has two crowns - super compressor-style. The crown at 2 controls the internal bezel.
There is one external bezel with tachymeter scale. There seems to have been two different layouts on the bezels - one has a larger font.

Measurements (taken from different sources):
Width w/o crown: 45 mm
Width with crown: ? mm
Length: 42-43 mm
Depth: 13 mm
Lugs: 19 mm

Mortima SuperDatomatic round case with blue dial.
Mortima SuperDatomatic round case, SUPER 28 on the black dial.
Mortima SuperDatomatic round case with large font on the external bezel.
Mortima SuperDatomatic round, seen from the side.
Mortima SuperDatomatic round, backcase with the diver.

The Oval Pepsi
The dial reads: "Mortima, 17 Jewels, SuperDatomatic, Waterproof 100%".
It has a red-blue day-night Pepsi bezel. This external bezel with 24h markings can be used to indicate an alternate timezone - sometimes called a poor-mans GMT. Very practical and aesthically pleasing. 
The case is wider than it is long. It has one crown and the internal bezel with 24h reading is fixed. 

Measurements (taken from different sources):
Width w/o crown: 43,5 mm
Width with crown: 44 mm
Length: ? mm
Depth: ? mm
Lugs: 20 mm
Mortima SuperDatomatic oval shaped, pepsi-dial.
Mortima SuperDatomatic oval pepsi.
Mortima SuperDatomatic oval pepsi, seen from the top.
Mortima SuperDatomatic oval pepsi, back of case with the diver.
Mortima SuperDatomatic oval pepsi on the wrist.
The crystal on this watch is missing the cyclop and is probably not original.
Mortima SuperDatomatic oval pepsi, another wristshot.

The chunky cushion
The dial reads: "Mortima, 21 Jewels, SuperDatomatic, Waterproof 100%". There is also versions that says "Mortima, 17 Jewels, SuperDatomatic, Waterproof 100%, Etanche 100%". "Etanche" is french for "waterproof". Though one says "21 Jewels" and the other "17 Jewels" - it is the same movement. As 17Jewels.info tells the extra 4 useless jewels were put on the plate just to increase the number.

The shape of this model is difficult to describe - it's like a square, but rounded in the sides and the top and bottom. This is a classic watch shape commonly known as a cushion. But the Mortima version has hidden lugs.
The chunky cushion has two internal bezels that are operated with the upper and lower of the three crowns.
As can be seen from this list many variations in dials, bezels etc. were made for different brands. But it seems that the Mortima-branded watches were very consistent: I have only seen watches with the red internal bezel in racing-style.

Measurements:
Width w/o crown: 43,7 mm
Width with crown: 46,5 mm
Length: 43,7 mm
Depth: ? mm
Lugs: 21,8 mm

Mortima SuperDatomatic with the cushion-shaped case and the standard dial, hands and two internal bezels.
Same Mortima but with "17 Jewels" and "Etanche 100%" on the dial.
Mortima SuperDatomatic with cushion-shaped case - seen from the side with the characteristic magnifying glass over the date.


The Round Pepsi
- work in progress -





Note: There is to be two almost identical models, but they differ in size. This watch is only 40 mm wide. The crowns seems to be recessed in the watch case on this model. Should not be mistaken for the larger version.


The Thermo-Compass
And now for something completely different. But also with a large watch case: The Mortima Mayerling 17 Jewels with three dials showing time, temperature and a compass. Not a diver. Mortima used "Mayerling" on some of their dress-watches. It is not beautiful but it is very unique.

Measurements (taken from different sources):
Width w/o crown: 45 mm
Width with crown: 48 mm
Length: 40 mm
Depth: 11 mm
Lugs: 22 mm
Mortima Thermo-Compass in silver with blue dial.
Mortima Thermo-Compass in silver with blue dial. Themo-dial with red in bottom.
Mortima Thermo-Compass back case.
Mortima Thermo-Compass in silver with blue dial on the wrist.
Mortima Thermo-Compass in silver with silver dial.
Mortima Thermo-Compass in silver and with a red dial.
Mortima Thermo-Compass was also made in a version with a golden case.


Please let me know if you have some corrections or input to this list.

CLICK HERE - GO TO THE NEWEST POST ON THIS BLOG ABOUT LARGE VINTAGE WATCHES

20. december 2016

Watches from Jean-Louis Frésard are not really vintage

I found some really nice watches from Jean-Louis Frésard which seemed to tick all boxes: Vintage, big, bold, fine condition and ok priced.

A closer inspection made me feel somehow cheated. It seems that Jean-Louis Frésard is a french watchmaker that assembles models from vintage and new parts. The Valjoux movements most be genuine and maybe some of the other parts, it is not certain to what extent.

The problem is not so much with Frésard themselves - they advertise the watches on eBay as "new with tags" - but when the watches are resold this information can be lost and the watches are advertised as from the "70s" in "NOS" condition or similar.

If you know what you are buying, these watches can be ok, but if you want authencity it is not the real deal.

Some examples:
Valjoux 7733 in a 42 mm wide steel case. Put together by Jean-Louis Frésard.
Valjoux 7734 in a 42 mm wide steel case. Put together by Jean-Louis Frésard.

Please note that watches branded "Fresard" is not the same as "Jean-Louis Frésard". Fresard made some interesting models in the 60s and 70s.

Sources:
http://www.fresardwatch.com/
http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/fresardwatch

CLICK HERE - GO TO THE NEWEST POST ON THIS BLOG ABOUT LARGE VINTAGE WATCHES

11. november 2014

Same chunky cushion watch case "Mortima-style" - different brands

A very nice large cushion shaped watch case with hidden lugs - seems to have been used by a wide variety of brands in the 70s. Some indicates the width to be 43 mm whereas others says 44 mm. I measure it to have these exact measures:
Width w/o crown: 43,7 mm
Width with crown: 46,5 mm
Length: 43,7 mm
Depth: 15,2 mm (depending on type of crystal - often domed)
Lugs: 19,3 mm

A reasonable theory is that the majority of these cases originates from the same manufacturer. This manufacturer has produced the entire watch (white label) or has just sold the cases - which then has been fitted with movement, dial and hands locally.
Supported by this source the main manufacturer could be Mortima. However normally all products from Mortima has the diver engraved on the back and only some of the watches below has this Mortima signature. If you want to know more about Mortima there is a bunch of info in these posts: History of Cattin & Cie, history of Mortima and large Mortima watches.

Please find below a collection of all the models with this case that I have come across while surfing. The list is sorted alphabetically.

In the end of this article there is more info about the ancestors of this cushion-shaped watch case-type that dates long back. I 1968 Heuer introduced the Camaro which I believe was an important inspiration for the watch case discussed here. It was then combined with elements from the super compressors - especially the internal rotating bezel - and some colorful dials that matches the style of the 1970s. Remove the lugs, which was also a trend at the time, and the "Mortima-style" was born ;-)
The Heuer Camaro introduced in 1968 must have been an inspiration for the "cushion-shaped-hidden-lugs-compressor-style" watch case that was popular in the 1970s. See examples below.

THREE CROWNS AND TWO INTERNAL BEZELS

Aurore Luxe Antichoc 17 Jewels
Source: eBay


Difor Antichoc
Source: eBay


Fresard Ancre 17 rubis Incabloc
Source: eBay


Grand Prix 21 Jewels Super De Luxe Datomatic
Source: eBay


James 25 rubis Datomatic


Jopel Antichoc
Source: eBay


JYB Antichoc

Lancia Incabloc Automatic
This is my specimen of the "Super Camaro"-family.


Le Royal 17 Rubis Unbreakable mainspring
Same dial layout as the Yearling - see later
Source


Le Royal 17 Rubis
Source: eBay


Lincoln Antichoc Ancre 17 Rubis
Source: eBay


Mortima 21 Jewels Super Datomatic Waterproof 100%
Source. Same model here.


Mortima 17 Jewels Super Datomatic Etanche 100%
Source. Same model here.


Mortima 17 Jewels Waterproof 100% Super Datomatic Unbreakable Spring Shockproof Antimagnetic
Different dial than thw two Mortima's above. Looks a bit like the Pirofa - see later.
This dial and these hands are common on other Mortima watches but not normally seen on this model. This is probably a frankenwatch.
Source: eBay


Moto 17R Monneret
Source


Orgadis 17 Rubis Datomatic

Orgadis Datomatic
Same as the Orgadis above but with blue chequered bezel.

Orgadis 17 Rubis Antichoc
Another Orgadis both with a different dial layout.


Pirofa Lorsa P 75A


Pirofa SHOCKproof
Note the small seconds. Movement FE233.
Source: eBay


Sihem Super Datomatic 17 Rubis


Splendy Super Datomatic Modele Reserve
Source: eBay


System Super Datomatic


System Super Datomatic Antimagnetic
Different dial layout compared to the one above
Source: eBay


Taunus Antichoc 17 Rubis
Three crowns. Two internal bezels. 


Veda Antichoc 17 Jewels
Source: eBay


Yearling 17 Rubis Antichoc Aqua 2000 Water-Resistant

Yearling 17 Rubis Antichoc


Yearling Mach 2 17 Rubis Antichoc
Source: eBay



THREE CROWNS - TWO INTERNAL BEZELS
BEZELS WITH DATE, DAY AND MONTH


Aurore
Source: eBay 


Avystyle Datomatic


Bessa Prestige Antichoc
Cover for outer bezel is missing here.
Source: eBay


Engo 19(?) Rubis Antichoc
Source: eBay


F.T. Leibundgut Besancon Super Datomatic Modele Reserve
Source: eBay


Horlostyle Antimagnetic Antichoc Unbreakable


Mortima Super Datomatic

Mortima 21 Jewels Super Datomatic Waterproof 100%
Movement: Cattin C66 (NBNB It's 17 jewels. The dials says 21 jewels. Somethings not right)
Probably same watch as above but with a different colour internal bezel


Yema TYL
Very interesting watch. Firstly - it is a french Yema - supposedely these watches branded TYL were made for export. Secondly - this watch seems to be missing the overlay over the bezel with the names of the months. See the watches above how it was supposed to be.



TWO CROWNS - ONE INTERNAL BEZEL - 
AND SOMETIMES WITH AN EXTRA EXTERNAL BEZEL
Note: On closer inspection the following watches with two crowns might actually have a slightly different watch case than the Super Camaro's above. 


Deauville 15 Rubis Water-Resistant Aqua 2000
Source: eBay


Esperanto Antimagnetic 17 Jewels Shockproof France 
Source: eBay


Mortima 17 Jewels SuperDatomatic Waterproof 100%


THE PREDECESSORS

One of the classic watch case styles known as a cushion:


This type of watch shape dates way back. This is a Rolex from from the 1930s. However the width was only 27 mm back then. Source.

The original Panerais had cushion watch cases.

And a Patek Philippe and a Longines from the 1930s.


And to round it off, a modern Panerai Radiomir PAM610 - very delicious:

http://www.hablemosderelojes.com/forum/showthread.php?67872-Los-gigantes-coloridos-de-los-a%F1os-70